Guanzhou University Stage

We had to leave our 5-star Dongguan hotel after just one night – very sad. I was in a big rush this morning to try and take advantage of the free, fast internet to a) update my blog, b) call home to wish everyone a Merry Christmas, and c) call the airline to continue the quest to change Pollo’s ticket. However, I couldn’t access the blog website. Eugene had said that he’d tried the last couple nights and had not been able to either. It didn’t occur to me until I spoke to my parents later that blogspot.com may be restricted by the Chinese government. It’s so easy to forget, with all the industry and evidence of capitalism that we’ve seen so far, that this is still a Communist country with major restrictions of liberty and information. Of course, most of these cities are part of Special Economic Zones, where I guess more free press (and other freedom of information) may be allowed than elsewhere in the country.

Our 1.5 hour transfer today wasn’t very interesting scenery-wise, except for some great pictures of vegetable fields against a backdrop of huge industrial buildings. Sort of like bits of Watsonville transplanted to San Jose. Also, we saw orchards of fruit trees all hung with plastic bags. We imagined the bags were protecting the fruit, or hastening the ripening, perhaps? We arrived at the University in Guanzhou. There were lots of apartment buildings all around, with clothes hanging from the balconies as usual. Not many people, but a lot of big, impressive buildings. It was sunny for the first time since Sai Kung, and beautifully warm. I almost wished I had shorts on.

After the start, Pollo rode and I walked to the second pit, located halfway around the course (which was an oval of 4K on the curving university roads. On the way, I stopped and sniffed the air, trying to locate the elusive floral scent that I’ve smelled from time to time since we arrived in the country. It’s the most beautiful scent, but I can’t associate it with any particular flower. Anyway, I was standing and sniffing, and a young man on a bike stopped and said, “Hello.” I tried to ask where the smell was coming from, but he was definitely confused by my question. He asked where I was going and I pointed over to the mechanics’ area with the wheels. “Oh,” he said, “I thought you maybe lost.” I suppose I looked lost, standing there sniffing the air with a goofy smile on my face! I asked him if he was a university student, and he said that yes, he was studying at the College of Technology. After our brief conversation, he pedaled off on the very old bike he was riding, and I was left to reflect on the incredible hospitality and kindness of the Chinese people we’ve met so far.

The pit area was right next to a walled complex which was identified by a sign as a “Military Administrative Zone.” There were 3 snallish chow-dogs guarding it and barking if anyone got too close. The police here are omnipresent, but though they are stern, they are not unapproachable. Yesterday we saw them enjoying their lunch while guarding the course, after a truck delivered boxes of food.

One thing that keeps striking me about China is the cleanliness. The streets and sidewalks are absolutely spotless. Everywhere one goes, there are women (always women) sweeping up the tiniest pieces of litter into their makeshift dustpans. Despite all the problems one hears about, I imagine Beijing will be better prepared to host the Olympics than a lot of other big cities with infrastructure challenges. The level of volunteer (and paid) mobilization here is phenomenal for this cycling event.

Eugene was briefly in a break of 4 or 5 riders, and got second in an intermediate sprint…don’t tell the Danish guys, but I think he’s gunning for the points! Alberto was well-positioned to get in a break, but it didn’t look promising for one to succeed today. Everything was being brought back. For all that, when it came to the sprint, it arrived in a big bunch with no lead-outs, and Amaurys got boxed in again. However, his placing today (top 10) shows a gradual improvement…we still hope he can pull out a podium or even a win by the end of the week. Unfortunately Simon (the Hong Kong rider with Mengoni for this race) crashed with just over 2 laps to go, and bruised his knee and scraped his ear. Hopefully he won’t have any major soreness tomorrow.

The hotel was again close to the race start/finish, so the guys rode, and I walked, to the lobby. There we collected our bags (I am starting to wish I had packed much more lightly) and trooped up to the rooms. Lunch was in a canteen/dining hall (part of the university) a 5-minute walk away. Accustomed as I’d become to the delicious food at the hotels thus far, the cafeteria fare was a comedown. The only really yummy thing was the choy (I’m not sure exactly it’s name, but it’s a bright green vegetable with a few florets like broccoli, with tiny yellow flowers). That’s consistently delicious everywhere I’ve eaten it in China. Maybe that’s the secret to Chinese health. I have definitely noticed a lack of obesity here – or even chubbiness – compared to the U.S. There are 2 race organizers or officials who are fat; they wouldn’t even stand out in the U.S., but here they look absolutely enormous.

I wanted to go for a ride again, but Pollo’s agenda was a nap, and so without a riding buddy I resigned myself to catching up on internet stuff and washing some clothes (by hand in the sink). I asked in the hotel lobby about a washing machine, finally resorting to drawing a picture to get my point across, but was told there was none.

As we walked to dinner later on, I finally found the source of the elusive, lovely scent. It’s a bush with tiny white flowers. I’ll take a photo tomorrow when it’s light out, and try to find out what its name is.

We caught highlights of the race on local TV tonight, which was fun. Meanwhile, I cursed the slow speed of my internet connection as I tried to get my blog up online…but at the same time was thankful that the proxy server (showed to me by someone who shall remain nameless in case the Chinese government should find and nail him) allows me access to the blog at all.